Weekend Trips: Scottsdale, Arizona

Scottsdale boasts 330 days of sunshine, a burgeoning arts scene -- and who can forget Spring Training? While it may not be a world-class dining destination yet, Scottsdale is clearly heading in that direction. 

 

Scottsdale has many posh resorts to choose from, but I stayed at the historic hacienda-style Hermosa Inn (www.hermosainn.com). It's set in a primarily residential area of Paradise Valley with views of Camelback Mountain, just minutes from downtown. The views capture the beauty of the desert and the tasteful decor will bring out the cowboy or cowgirl in just about anyone. The restaurant onsite is LON's, named for Lon Megargee, the cowboy painter and raconteur who built the property. 

 

The chef at Lon's is Jeremy Pacheco, an Arizona native who worked at a local resort before spending 5 years in Las Vegas. He told me that the culinary scene has changed a lot in the past few years. For example, there are more small farms and ranchers offering high-quality local products. Some of the outstanding dishes I tried at Lon's included the ahi tuna starter (served seared on a block of Himalayan salt) and the crisp Mediterranean sea bass served in a bowl with juicy cockles cooked with fennel and bacon.

 

On Saturday, start at the Orange Table (tel. 480/424-6819; 7373 E. Scottsdale Mall #6), a small funky spot just off the Scottsdale Civic Mall. Breakfast here features jalapeno accents to dishes like corned beef hash and even pecan pancakes! Don't worry the peppers on the pancakes are steeped in maple syrup and are sweet, not hot. 

 

After breakfast, make your way to the Scottsdale Old Town Farmer's Market (www.arizonafarmersmarkets.com). The fresh organic produce from McClendon's is stunning and there are lots of options for snacking or edible souvenirs. Don't miss the vanilla olive oil from Queen Creek, the ancho jalapeno pecans from spice purveyor Dust, and ice cream from the Sweet Republic truck.

 

The perfect lunch awaits across the street from the market, at The Mission (www.themissionaz.com). This modern Latin spot is all about pork. I loved the pork shoulder tacos, a riff on al pastor with juicy chunks of pineapple. They also serve great margaritas!

 

Much of Arizona is dominated by strip malls, but you can find some surprisingly good restaurants tucked away between hair salons and sportswear outlets. Rancho Pinot is one. The cowboy Western decor gives no indication to the sophisticated plates that come out of the kitchen. My favorite dish here was the asparagus with prosciutto, fried egg and crispy crumbs.

 

Another restaurant in a strip mall is lively Noca (www.restaurantnoca.com). The focus here isn't local but the best quality. The fresh seafood is particularly impressive as are the pastas. My favorite dishes were crunchy tempura calamari with chiles and matcha, a pristine bite of hamachi, and the best linguine and clams. The tender pillowy clams with a hint of chili and basil will stay in my mind for a long time to come. 

 

On Sunday, skip breakfast. You'll need your appetite for Arizona Food Tours (www.arizonafoodtours.com). Take the noon tour and learn the history of Scottsdale while grazing your way through town. Highlights include the Rusty Spur Saloon, the 1950s classic Sugar Bowl (www.sugarbowlscottsdale.com) ice cream parlor and Cowboy Ciao, home of the justifiably famous Stetson salad.

 

End your weekend on a high note, by dining at FNB (www.fnbrestaurant.com). The kale falafel isn

't like any I've had before; it's soft and creamy with pan-fried edges and a delightful Meyer lemon tahini sauce. The beet and goat cheese salad also takes a twist, with pickled eggs beets. The pasta with duck confit, lentils, sweet potato, greens, and a sprinkling of crumbs is pure comfort. Dishes change here with the seasons, but local products will be featured and chances are you will like what you find.

 

I was a guest of the Hermosa Inn and the Scottsdale Convention and Visitors Bureau.

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